Sunday, February 4, 2018 – Fairbanks, North Pole, and Steese Highway.

Breakfast was planned for 8:00 am by our host – Sourdough pancakes – made with sourdough starter that is over 100 years old.  The family had fed this starter for that long - generation to generation!  We enjoyed the breakfast, however late last night Wilbur was able to make contact with friends, Bob & Carol in North Pole, Alaska.  They wanted to meet him at 9:00 for breakfast this morning.   Great! Two breakfasts!  We drove the 20 miles to North Pole where we had an enjoyable time with Bob’s 90-year-old Mother and 6-year-old granddaughter, while Wilbur visited with Bob & Carol.  After our second breakfast we were going to Santa’s House in North Pole, but it is closed for the winter months. However, on the property next door they had an ice sculpture display.  We had to walk through and around the display.  We SOON discovered we had NOT dressed for this occasion, -20!  Wow, did we get cold in a very short time. We thought we would be in a vehicle or restaurant!!! NOT outside!

After leaving North Pole we drove northeast on the Steese Highway. It was a beautiful drive in the winter landscape.  At one point we saw signage to Ski Land.  We followed the cleared road to the summit where there was a ski lift.  There were lots of cleared ski trails.  There was a beautiful view from the summit. At this point I want to tell you about temperature inversion. Normally we think that the higher the elevation, the cooler it will be.  However, we are finding the opposite to be true here!  There is a reason for it.  We know that cold air goes to the bottom, like in a freezer, or in a room, the warm air rises.  So, what we are finding in Alaska - when you are in the valley it is colder than up on a hillside or mountain.  Today this meant that on the mountain top it was +16 degrees, where as at the bottom it was -5!!!  From our hosts home which is located on a hillside, to downtown Fairbanks, which is along the river in the valley the temperature will vary at least 10 to 15 degrees.  This is called temperature inversion.  When we crawled out of the car at the ski lodge, it was noticeably warmer than in Fairbanks – especially from North Pole where it was horribly cold just a 45-minute drive away.

North Pole Alaska

Ice Sculptures

Alaskan Pipeline

Mountain Range from the top of a Ski Slope

After returning to town we stopped at the Fountainhead Antique Auto Museum.  What an amazing museum.  Beside the 85 rare cars in mint condition, Mrs. Fountainhead has a collection of vintage clothing – 175 fashions and hats to go along the time-period of the car. The vintage dresses/clothing were a wonderful addition to the car collection.  We have been in several auto museums, but this one top all of them. At one point we could model clothes and sit in a car – see photo.

Ready for a Sunday Afternoon Drive

We are really enjoying Alaska in winter.  We have been here in June (summer), September (autumn) and now (winter).  It is totally different, but each season is beautiful. 

Tonight, we are going into town to buy some groceries for Cal & Wilbur’s Host (Sandy & Burr) in Eagle.  Sandy & Burr go into Anchorage twice a year to buy 6 months-worth of supplies, doctor’s appointments, and any other business!  They have a trailer in which they have a freezer and generator.  Today over the phone Sandy gave the guys a list of fresh veggies to bring with them. They need to keep them in the front of the plane or they will freeze in the baggage compartment. It is a totally different life-style.  In fact, our host here in Fairbanks, Jean, told me last night that she was in college before she ever tasted fresh milk.  It was always canned or powdered.   Jean’s Grandfather came to Alaska, so she is deeply Alaskan.  Her family’s business (now run by her brother) is the oldest in Fairbanks. Whereas Bob came to Alaska after college, 40+ years ago, and stayed.  I find the stories of how and why people came to Alaska, and stayed, to be very interesting.

Saturday February 3, 2018:  Fairbanks -  Race Day!!!!!!

After breakfast, we dressed in our warmest gear!  Layer after layer!  We borrowed a few items from Jean & Bob, but we had mostly our own gear.  After you are dressed, you can barely bend over! Plus, you have to go outside, as you begin heating up to the point of being hot.  While it was still early dawn in Alaska (8:30 am), we left for the Quest Starting Line. We parked in the Courthouse parking area around 9:00am (this being Sat am, there was open parking).  Dog teams began arriving, dogs were being fed, and final prep for the race was underway.  At 11:00am the race will begin. 

After walking around for a while we returned to the Fudge Pot again (located across the street from the parking lot) for a cup of coffee and to stay warm.  We did feel very comfortable outside, but we will be standing outside for at least 2 ½ hours (the duration of the race).  The temperature is -13!  You can cool down real fast if not properly dressed.

As the musher and dogs lined up at the Starting Line, the dogs are barking, almost out-of-control.  They are so excited to be on the trail. Every three minutes a new team leaves the starting line, and there were 26 teams registered.  The Yukon Quest (YQ) is a 1000 miles race, going over 4 mountains, with check-points as much as 150 miles apart, and the temperatures are extremely cold. Other races are in March when it is not as cold.  They consider this the hardest of all dog sled races.  

Preparing for the Race

The Start Area

At the Start Line, it is announced when there was 2 minutes to start, 30 seconds to start, followed by a countdown the last 10 seconds, before they are off and running. The second they begin running the dogs are quiet!  They ran through a chute of people, yelling best wishes, until they were on the frozen river, and they were off into their own solitude.  

We began watching the race at a point near the Starting Line, later moving to different locations further down the chute.  At one point we walked to the bridge overlooking the chute – this was a different perspective. Then later still, we actually went down onto the river.  It was an extremely interesting event.  So glad we were able to be here and enjoy it.  After the YQ1000 was finished we returned to the Fudge Pot for soup and a sandwich.  Yes, we liked the Fudge Pot, but the determining issue was location, location, location!!

Team #1 Getting Ready for the Race

Team #1 in the Starting Chute ready for the Start

We did not realize until we arrived in Fairbanks, that at 3:00 on Saturday there is the start of the YQ300 (300-mile race).  They begin at the same location, so after a slow lunch, we went to the Visitor Center and museum to spend-down the time until the YQ300 began.  What was interesting, the Visitors Center was showing a film on old Dawson City in their Theater.  We sat in on the film for over an hour.  It was extremely interesting since we have been to Dawson City twice.  We could not stay for the whole showing, as the race was beginning.  There were 15 teams registered for the YQ300.  However, the crowd was extremely slim in comparison to the Quest in the morning, allowing us to watch unobstructed at any point.  Again, it was very enjoyable!  

Musher with His Lead Dogs

Keeping Warm at the Quest

Heading Down the Trail

All Ready and Anxious to Start

We returned to our host around 4:30, exhausted from a day in the cold.  We were dress appropriately, so that we were not cold today.  You will note I  the photo, how we had our mouths and noses covered.  That cold air can hurt your throat.  You need to breathe through your nose.  My biggest problem was a dripping nose.  To get the Kleenex out of my pocket required taking off the mittens.  Taking them off is no problem but putting them back on was a problem! Cal had to wipe my nose several times!!  I felt like a little kid!!

For our evening meal we went to the Turtle Club.  It was an old-fashioned Supper Club.  Good salad bar, and Prime Rib to die for! They had 3 serving sizes of Prime Rib – the largest was the Miner’s Serving, 20-24 oz.!! 

Denali Mountain from our Host House